Smart Bitches Cross Stitches 101

I recently received a lovely email from Linda:

You’ve mentioned your cross stitch projects on the site before, but I wondered (since we’re going into high crafting season) if maybe you could do a general post about it? Because I have questions and they are pretty basic. I’ve done cross stitch here and there over the years, always from a kit, usually bought at a craft store but I’m working on a very small project now that I got on Etsy.

Here are the questions I’m running into:

  • Where can I get an embroidery hoop that works well with cross stitch fabric and doesn’t need to be adjusted every 10 seconds?
  • Where’s a good place to buy cross stitch kits? (Or, where are your favorite sources?)
  • How does it work when you buy just a pattern? I keep seeing that for designs I like, but then where/how do I buy the fabric and all the floss?
  • When you buy the pattern does it tell you what colors they used?
  • And is it just regular embroidery floss? And then where do you buy that?

Normally I’m all knitting all the time, but I’m having some issues with my wrists, plus cross stitch makes pictures and that is super fun!

I know this is slightly off topic, but not really since I was listening to your podcast while cross stitching earlier and remembered that you’ve talked a little about it before. As always, thank you so much for an informative, entertaining, and enlightening podcast and website that I’m very happy to support every month!

As I said to Linda, I am delighted to answer cross stitch questions. I really like cross stitching quite a bit, and with all the subversive and terrific kits and patterns, I’d be delighted to help you stab things with needles over and over and over. It’s very satisfying, and the results can be even more delightful.

As one of my favorite cross stitchers on Instagram, BadAssCrossStitch, said:

Just as Elyse has her love of knitting, I love cross stitch.

Beginner Instructions

Let me start with basic instructions, as I have a few resources to share.

I learned to cross stitch from a Subversive Cross Stitch kit, which came with a hoop, Aida (that’s the cloth you stitch on), floss, needles, and a pattern with instructions. Her kits are around $20, and that was everything I needed to get started on my first project, which was a gift for a co-worker who had been diagnosed with cancer. From there I went on to “Fuck Off I’m Reading” bookmarks, and haven’t looked back.

The process of cross stitching is really pretty simple. You’re making an X with embroidery floss. But much like knitting, the variables within “make an X with floss” mean that you can create some truly stunning stitchy art. Subversive Cross Stitch has a page of links and animated images illustrating the different stitches.

I learned to knit using a children’s book, which I still have, though I don’t knit very much. It’s called Kids Knitting, and it was very, very helpful. So I also want to recommend a craft book that’s aimed at children, but would very likely be a great asset to someone learning to cross stitch.

I Can Cross Stitch
A | BN | K | AB
SBTB commenter EC Spurlock wrote I Can Cross Stitch, and sent me a copy a few years ago when it was released. It is a perfect learning guide, I think: there are photographs with cross stitches, half and quarter stitches, back stitching, and how to finish a thread, too. Then there are patterns of different sizes (including a beautiful alphabet pattern I really like) and project ideas, too.

So if you’re looking to learn, I recommend a kit that includes all you need, and I Can Cross Stitch, which takes you through the process step by step.

Buying Kits, Patterns, and Supplies

Linda asked:

  • Where’s a good place to buy cross stitch kits? (Or, where are your favorite sources?)

There are so many excellent cross stitch kits, and so many excellent places to buy them. When I lived in Jersey, I lived near a truly magical store called The Edwardian Needle that carried every supply for needle crafters. But most craft stores such as JoAnn Fabrics and Michael’s carry cross stitching supplies. And of course, there are a lot of things you can buy.

As I mentioned, the first kit I purchased was from Subversive Cross Stitch, and I recommend them most vigorously. A kit includes the hoop, fabric, needle, and floss you need.

Other sources I like for all-in-one kits:

You Tit Cross stitch kit with a blue tit bird and the caption YOU TIT

A search on Etsy for “beginner cross stitch kits” yields many, many options. I think a fun way to learn is to be motivated by a pattern that gives you a lot of joy. (For me, that involved patterns with curse words but I’m presuming no one is surprised by that.)

  • How does it work when you buy just a pattern? I keep seeing that for designs I like, but then where/how do I buy the fabric and all the floss?
  • When you buy the pattern does it tell you what colors they used?

Patterns are often sold as digital PDFs (one of my 2018 projects is to start developing all my cross stitch pattern ideas into PDF downloads, so stay tuned) but they will tell you that colors of embroidery floss to buy. There are a few major brands, such as DMC or Anchor, and most patterns will tell you the different numeric colors you need for those brands.

Each color has a number code, and the pattern will tell you what numbers to buy. My favorite DMC color is 666, which is a seriously vibrant, devilish red, and every time I use it, I grin like a doofus.

The good thing about embroidery thread or floss (or bad, depending on how you feel about an increasing collection of embroidery supplies) is that you don’t often use an entire skein in one project. So you’ll have leftovers (yay?).

A few words about Aida cloth. 

As for buying the fabric, the pattern will also tell you what to buy. My local JoAnn’s has Aida cloth in pre-cut sizes and some fabric stores have bolts of it so you can stitch that wall-sized cross stitch tapestry you’ve always wanted.

Alas, Aida fabric shopping confuses the hell out of me every time because it has a count and a size, and that many numbers is a recipe for confused Sarah.

A pattern will tell you what size of cloth and what stitch count you need. For example, a pattern may call for “a 6″ x 6″ piece of 14-count Aida.” The most common stitch counts are 11, 14, 18, and 28, which tell you how many stitches can be made in one inch. The higher the count, the higher the number of stitches per inch, and most often the higher the level of detail in the finished piece.  A pattern may also give you different stitch count options, and the resulting finished project size.

Fun trivia: speculation among stitchery historians is that the cloth was renamed as “Aida cloth” after Verdi’s opera.

  • And is it just regular embroidery floss? And then where do you buy that?

Yup, regular embroidery floss, which is often cheap and often included in coupons. Most craft stores have floss, and there are a few online outlets, too, if you don’t have a crafting store near you.

Hoops!

I asked which type of hoop Linda was using, and she clarified:

I’m using a plastic hoop that I think came with my Sublime Stitching embroidery kit, but I also have one of those wooden ones that you find at craft stores (and seem rather cheap) hanging around somewhere. 

I have a number of wood hoops from kits that I’ve purchased. For the giant, neverending cross stitch project I’m currently working on,  I just upgraded from a circular hoop to a Q-Snap which I like a LOT better. A Q-Snap is made of plastic PVC pipes, which are lightweight and larger to hold in one hand.

If you’re seriously into cross stitching, you can find lap stands or even floor stands that scroll through your pattern, similar to what quilters might use.

I’ll continue this series with part 2 next week, where I’ll be talking about managing patterns on paper and (this rocked my life) on tablets or screens, and also about ways to organize your supplies.

What about you? Are you an avid cross stitcher who likes to stab things with needles, too? What suggestions do you have for Linda, and any other beginning stitchy bitches? 

Add Your Comment →

  1. Linda says:

    Thank you so much for answering my questions! This is an incredibly helpful post, and there’s lots of great info in the comments as well. I’ll definitely be taking lots of this advice!

  2. Wench says:

    So to be even more precise, cross stitch is a type of counted thread embroidery, because you count the threads you’re stitching over. Also included are blackwork, bargello, Hardanger (nothing like the adrenaline rush of cutting your fabric and pulling threads out) and more. SO MANY WAYS TO STAB it’s truly wonderful.

    And as for cross-stitch, you also have people like me who make ornaments, use silk, use multi-colored floss (which, in that case, I cross each stitch as I make it; otherwise if there’s a row I go down the row in one direction and then come back and cross it), use fancy-ass non-cross counted thread stitches, add beads… really, there’s quite the rabbit hole down here, come join us, it’s fun 😀

  3. Kris L. says:

    My favorite tip is gridding both the fabric and pattern to make it easier to work on different parts of the cross stitch without getting off by a row and having to rip stitches. I get bored with doing a single color for a long time so I like to switch sections between strands and this makes it super easy! I use a fine tip sharpie in a bright color on the pattern, go over the 10 square grid, and letter the grid across the top and number down the side. For the fabric I use water soluble fabric marker or chalk markers (black fabric) to do the same. Then you can find a good spot to start on the pattern, go to the corresponding square on the fabric and stitch away. Both fabric marker and dressmaker’s chalk wash out with a gentle soak.

  4. Kate says:

    I have done cross stitch as my major hobby for 20+ years now (I feel old), so a few recommendations. For some different cross stitch kits, try Bothy Threads in England (I love the black shadow fairy tale set, just finishing the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party which worked out awesome). Don’t shy away from moving from aida to even weave if you get into the hobby, even weave isn’t that hard and creates a pictures that looks harder without being harder necessarily. Once you get into stitching that needs beads, metallics, and maybe even weaves, try Needle in a Haystack (needlestack.com online) as they have never hesitated to spend as much time as I need on the phone to find the perfect materials.

    And I have RSI injuries that mean stitching in hand is a non-starter. I use a (now out of business) frame on a Lowery stand (find at sewandso.co.uk) which keeps my hands from protesting too much at my 5+ hours a week of stitching (plus a computer job). So if you have wrist issues, try larger projects on scroll frames in a stand, and it gets much easier.

  5. Elizabeth says:

    I use an amazing (and free!) online program called Stitch Fiddle to convert images into patterns. It gives you the option of stitch count by stitch count as well as DMC vs. Anchor. You can play with it a lot! I’m working on a project at the moment that I used this program to make a chart for.

    https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en

  6. kitkat9000 says:

    @Ren Benton: I haven’t cross-stitched since childhood, but that pattern may just get me to restart. Thanks, I think…

    I’m actually afraid to look at that feminist site for fear of what I’ll end up buying.

  7. @SB Sarah says:

    THAT IS AMAZING OMG.

  8. Heather Kay says:

    I wonder if anyone has tips for taking a pattern and marking it (transferring it?)to aida or linen. My mom loves cross stitching but only does the printed-on-fabric kind, and struggles with counted patterns. There are so many nice patterns for counted cross stitch and if I could find a way to get the pattern on her fabric, she would be ecstatic. Is that possible? Thanks!

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