Smart Podcast, Trashy Books Podcast

182. Historical Costumes and Historical Clothing: An Interview with RedHeadedGirl

RedheadedGirl and Sarah discuss historical costumes, and historical clothing – and how they’re not the same thing. They cover the costumes from Reign, The Tudors, Rome, and Outlander, as well as Jessica McClintock prom gowns from the 80s, clothing in the Regency and other eras, and what it’s like when you see a costume and you think, I bet I can make that. We also have a very candid discussion about contemporary uses for panniers, women’s undergarments, the truth about togas, and undercarriage comfort solutions.

Note: we talk about lots of pictures in this podcast, so if you’re out and about, you can check the podcast entry at smartbitchestrashybooks.com/podcast to see panniers like you have never seen panniers before.

Read the transcript

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Here are the books we discuss in this podcast:

We talked about a LOT of things. Hold on to your HTML because here come links!

These are the images RedHeadedGirl and I discussed:

Court Dress, 1750

 

Mantua or dress with panniers like holy smoke. They're at least three feet on either side of the waist of the dress, and every surface is covered with colored embroidery of birds and trees and more birds and it's just jaw dropping

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This Episode's Music

Sketch - shed life - close up of a yakThe music you’re listening to was provided by Sassy Outwater, and you can find her on Twitter @Sassyoutwater. This is a band called Sketch, and this is “Shed Life” from their album by the same name.

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Transcript

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This podcast transcript was handcrafted with meticulous skill by Garlic Knitter. Many thanks.

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  1. Kim says:

    Dear Sarah and RedHeadedGirl,

    Thanks again for the wonderful podcast. I loved this discussion, period costumes are such a great topic.

    I most, however, protest on behalf of mr. Bonaparte. He was not, as the myth perpetuates, short. In fact, for his time he was slightly taller than the average frenchman. I believe the confusion stems from a difference in the measuring systems between the French and the English at the time, but don’t quote me on that. He’s now believed to have been 170 cm (5’7). Just as tall as me 🙂

    Thanks again for making my day a little brighter <3

  2. Marie Dry says:

    This was a wonderful discussion. Loved the links.

  3. Tina says:

    I haven’t listened yet, but I will be later. The costumes on that show Reign make me stabby. So stabby I hate watch just so I can scream at my TV. And the hair, don’t even get me started on the hair. That show is nothing more than a one hour commercial for this prom season’s latest fashion.

  4. Scarlett says:

    re: Napoleon’s height

    I had a college professor that was convinced the measuring system idea was a rumor and his “shortness” was to do with his, *ahem* little general. So basically a spurned lover started a rumor or something or maybe it was Josephine and it stuck so even though he wasn’t “short” he was “short” if you know what i mean *winky face* *leer* *winky face* (literally everyone knows what I mean here next time I’ll just say penis.)

  5. JennyOH says:

    I haven’t had the chance to listen yet, but I can’t wait to! Historical dress vs historical costumes has been an interest of mine. OMG That Dress is an AMAAAAAZING resource for anyone with an interest in historical clothing, and I would also recommend Two Nerdy History Girls (blog written by historical romance authors Loretta Chase and Susan Holloway Scott AKA Isabella Bradford) – as well as discussing historical clothing, they often feature the millinery and seamstress at Colonial Williamsburg. Recycled Movie Costumes is fabulous if you’re the kind of person who watches costume dramas and keeps thinking “I KNOW I’ve seen that dress before!”
    Thanks again for being awesome!

  6. Colleen says:

    I can’t wait to listen! You’ve already made my Friday brighter in anticipation! I just wanted to add that The Corseted Beauty on Facebook is making my newsfeed very happy. Some gorgeous dresses over there ladies, from a wide array of countries and time periods. And let me go on record as saying, as a mother with small children who I already tend to clock with my elbows or knock over with my hips, thank God we are out of panniers!

  7. SB Sarah says:

    The fact that y’all are so excited about this episode is MAKING my day SO MUCH GOODER. Thank you!

  8. cayenne says:

    Thank you so much for this episode!! I adore historical dress and costume, and tend to nitpick the crap out of period dramas so much that I’ve often considered making a drinking game out of it. I should get on that 🙂

    I had the opportunity to visit the Bath Costume Museum (BCM) when I was 14 (lo these many years) and it was practically a formative experience. I most vividly recall being immensely puzzled by the mantuas, they were so alien, but also regarding them almost as a artist’s canvas – the simplicity of the rectangular form really sets off the fancywork on it. I’ve disappeared down the BCM website rabbit hole numerous times now, and I highly recommend it.

    Finally, I see your Jessica McClintock and raise you Gunne Sax. A below-the-knee version of this (which I’m pretty sure has been chopped by about 1′) was my bat mitzvah dress: http://www.bunnyandwolf.com/shop/vintage-gunne-sax

  9. Kendra says:

    Very entertaining! I will confirm, as someone who does a lot of 18th century costuming, that you can indeed fit a whole bottle of champagne into one side of your pocket hoops (the separated version of the panniers worn in the 1770s).

  10. I always heard that part of the myth of Napoleon being short was that the English won, and they took great joy in mocking the losers in all sorts of ways (they also mocked plenty of the winners, to be honest).

  11. Worth? Where are the pictures of Worth gown? I would adore to wear Worth gowns except for the corsets. I would never wear a corset as I really enjoy breathing.

    As for Reign, aside from the ridiculous clothing, the show is so historically inaccurate that I didn’t make it through the first episode.

  12. Where’s Claire’s red dress? Please?

  13. TiffanyS says:

    My enthusiasm for accuracy in historical garments can be explained pretty easily. This is me. https://www.flickr.com/photos/feyblue/3540681507/in/album-72157618391376214/

    My pet peeve is back opening dresses prior to the regency era.

  14. ReneeG says:

    Just went down the rabbit hole – what a great podcast and thank you so much for the wonderful sites!

    Just WOW!

  15. Karenmc says:

    Thanks for reminding me that Dangerous Beauty is just the thing to watch this weekend. I ADORE that movie, and Sarah is right: not enough people know about it. I went through a whole Catherine McCormack thing after seeing it, and tracked down every title I could find that she’s in (there’s not much).

    Also, a pannier as a charging seems a bit, uh, unwieldy, but very stylish.

  16. Juanita says:

    Another awesome episode! I really enjoyed it and exploring the links. Thank you for the podcast and a great website.

  17. Erin L says:

    Loving this podcast! Butt paste and thigh chafing (or chub rub as I call it) conversations make me smile. I like to wear these under my dresses in the summer http://www.bandelettes.com/shop/ just in case anyone is looking for another solution.

  18. marion says:

    I spent hours yesterday at that historical drama tumblr. Such fun, thank you!

    Is there a website that features Twenties fashion? I love that period ever since I watched Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries.

  19. mamx says:

    http://weeberry.tumblr.com/

    mostly the fashion from the 1700 to 1800s , lot of pictures ,it a lot and it gorgous.

  20. marion says:

    @Gloriamarie, thank you very much for the links!

  21. @marion, glad you enjoyed them. There are more if you google “fashions from the 1920s”

    I also love those clothes. If one is naturally flat chested, I bet they were comfortable to wear. I am all about comfort in my clothing.

  22. Kilian Metcalf says:

    One of my favorite podcasts. So much awesome. I don’t have a TV, so I knew nothing of Reign. I’m not sure that even if I had a TV I would know about Reign. I’m glad I don’t have any stitches because I am sure I would pop them from laughing. The women look like escapees from a Ren Faire. I do like Alexander McQueen designs, but think they looked 1000% better on Jessica Chastain on the red carpet. http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/node/295128/modal?parent=299172

    Thank you so much for this. Since I love historicals, any time RHG talks about anything, I listen.

  23. Kilian Metcalf says:

    Sorry ^link doesn’t work. Try this one to see the great Alexander McQueen dress on Jessica Chastain:

    http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/jessica-chastain-oscar-gown-for-sale-299172

  24. Linotte says:

    I loved this episode and the pics and the product recommendations! And Reign is so ridiculous but it’s my guilty pleasure. I always bingewatch it on Netflix, though. I never take the time during the week to watch it.

  25. Martha says:

    Ladies! Thank you so much for this! It was my first listen to one of your podcasts – but I plan to work through them all! I’m also a ballet dancer (returned as an adult after many years – no toe – my knees are starting to creak). I am also a runner (less so now due to aforementioned knees). I’m a big Outlander fan too and started reading the series 20 years ago… lucky enough to have met Diana and took the opportunity to tell her what my favourite scene in all the books was! A couple of things to add to your wonderful discussion. Taschen Books has published a book a very affordable fully illustrated book, “The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: Fashion, a History from the 18th to the 20th Century”. I assume you are familiar with the documentaries by Dr. Lucy Worsley (all on Youtube!), particularly “Tales from the Royal Wardrobe”, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0MrIpJb1Gs.
    Again, many thanks for the highly enjoyable and incredibly informative podcast which I listened to while I was cooking. Needless to say, dinner.was.late!!

  26. Martha says:

    p.s. I forgot to add that the Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery in Glasgow has a spectacular collection of men’s and women’s wear from 1700 on. My own favourite dress of all time is a blue and white silk dress from the late 1700’s which is ENTIRELY quilted. The image at this link is very flat, but the dress is stunning and utterly unique, imho. http://collections.glasgowmuseums.com/viewimage.html?oid=127147&i=535982

    In addition, there are numerous free catalogues from the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute available for download on the Metropolitan Publications site. These can be stored in iBooks – and the quality is excellent. Many of the were written by longtime curator, Harold Koda.

  27. bex says:

    GoldBond makes this antii-chafing stick that is AMAZING.

  28. 18thCenturyLass says:

    Love this episode! RedHairedGirl, I feel like we could be BFFs! *Love* that you used the word “stays”! I’m a former Rev war reenactor so I know a fair amount 18th century clothing, and cringe every time I hear people say the word “corset” in regards to the 18th century.

    I love what they’ve been doing on Outlander for costuming, it’s not 100% accurate, but attempts to be as accurate as possible. Love that in season 1 the costumes were more accurate than the books (which was not at all accurate).

    I watch Reign, but I had to decide that I wasn’t going to be critical of the costumes after the first episode or I wouldn’t be able to watch the show at all.

  29. The reason not to watch Reign is the way the writers abuse history. I believe very strongly that we need to hold all writers accountable to use the facts, not ignore them. It was obvious from the very first episode that the writers were ignoring history because Mary was a ****child**** when she was sent to France.

  30. Colleen says:

    To answer apron dress and other Northern European costuming related questions, I direct you to the amazing Kelsey Patton:

    http://spindleshuttleandneedle.com/

    This may not be the best way to find her costumes but it’s all I’ve got. She’s been invited to go all over the place teaching about historically accurate costumes.

  31. I invite you to check out the article that I blogged on this subject last year. Great topic. Thanks, SBTB.

    http://victoriadanann.com/reign-gossip-girls-in-funky-costumes/

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